Foie Gras for Five

Well, it WAS 14 degrees, on average. The last few days we've been having a heat wave.

David, Heather, Anica, Rob, Jenn at Jardins de Marqueyssac, France

Geese of the Perigord

April 25

(Rob)

We won the race to Sarlat! 550 km from Paris, no wrong turns, until we were just metres from our accommodation. Then we did four laps around the medieval quarter looking for the elusive parking spot closest to the pedestrian-only zone. Ah, well. That hiccup was nothing compared to my parents, whose high-speed train from Paris to Bordeaux was fine, but the second train stopped at Bergerac, not Sarlat. It would go no farther. Strike! We had no idea there was a railroad strike going on. Suddenly my parents were having an "Amazing Race" moment! A group of nine were expecting to go on to Sarlat. They were told that a bus would take them at 7:30 - which was four hours later. Everybody made such a fuss that the train company paid for taxis (over a hundred Euros each) to Sarlat. They got to the train station in Sarlat at 4:30. I was waiting for about half an hour, sort of wondering why no trains were arriving.

Sarlat is very pretty, especially in its medieval core, where only the tiniest cars may pass. We had a typical Dordogne dinner, with foie gras, coq au vin, etc. Our self-catering apartment is in a small hotel/house of about six. Tilting cobblestone streets, wisteria creeping along the walls, it looks like our time together in Sarlat will be a real treat.

Wisteria growing in a Sarlat square

The 12th-century "Lanterne des Morts," Sarlat

April 26

(Rob)

Market day! Overnight, the streets of Sarlat's medieval core were transformed. Up and down all the main streets were stalls and umbrellas for the market dealers. We bought all sorts of food for lunch: foie de gras, bread, pastries, olives, dry sausage, cheeses...But it wasn't just food; it was crafts, clothing, and collectibles of a very high quality.

Selling Foie Gras

Family at the Saturday Sarlat market

We're having summer-like weather, so it was beautiful to wander through the market before going back to the apartment to lay out our feast. By dinner, the market had vanished, and we ate on the patio of a creperie just as the gas streetlamps twinkled to life.

April 27

(Rob)

Cave day! Another theme, I guess. It was also a very scenic drive of about a 100 km in total. We went to Lascaux II, which replicates the most famous prehistoric cave art site. Lascaux itself can no longer be visited by tourists because the paintings were deteriorating to the point of disappearing. The reproduction, though "fake," is a tremendous achievement in itself. They built the caves in the exact shape down to the millimetre and hired a single artist to do the paintings, who took eleven years to do so, using the methods and materials of the prehistoric artists. The tour was great; we really grew to appreciate the life-like elements of the cave art, and how they incorporated the relief of the rock into the line and shape of their subjects.

Then we went to La Roc Christophe, which was, again, unlike any we've seen anywhere in the world. It's a cliff overhang that has been inhabited off and on for about 50, 000 years. The levels of the cliff-dwellings are connected by rough-hewn staircases that remain, and were also once spanned by ropes and ladders. In 1588, a Protestant community was evicted from the cliffs, ending a period of recorded history that dated back to the 10th century. Much of the re-creation has to do with the medieval lifestyle, and Anica acted as tour guide for all of us, reading out a series of explanations. Great view, too, looking out over the swiftly flowing river and green valley.

Le Roc St. Christophe: cliffside living at its finest!

Our final stop was Le Thot, where they have a little museum, some more replicated cave art, and, best of all for Anica, the present-day counterparts of the animals depicted, such as bison, ibex and deer.

April 29

(Rob)

After a rainy, quiet day, we covered the countryside again today. The theme: Chateau Day. The Dordogne region of France is named after the Dordogne River, which winds a serpentine path, often lazily. But now with spring rains, it's overflowing its banks and running swiftly.

We stopped in La Roque-Gagneac, a town with one street, running parallel to the river. We stopped at a scenic viewpoint to look out over the castle of Montfort and the "black Perigord" countryside ("black" because the oaks don't shed their leaves). Another photo-op was the little church in the field, with its adjacent cemetery. The custom around here is to have miniature greenhouses over the grave plots. They're very well-tended, but it certainly gives a different look to a graveyard.

Part of the imaginative gardens at Marqueyssac

Then we visited a gardens, called Marqueyssac, although it was on the land of a Chateau, so that fit the theme. My Dad was so enthused: "look at this place! Heather! Look at this waterfall! You should paint this, Heather! This is fantastic! Rob, I'm telling you...This is phenomenal!" It's great to be with my parents, because they really appreciate what they're seeing. My Dad captures sights visually in his memory, and is able to recall them later with near-hypnotic clarity. Marqueyssac also started the day's trend of being able to see the rest of the day's sites from across the valley: we could see both Castelnaud and Beynac from the garden's "Belvedere."

Approaching Castelnaud

The siege machines have returned to Castelnaud

Castelnaud was English in the Hundred Years War, then Protestant in the Wars of Religion. Despite backing these wrong horses, the family never lost their chateau. They eventually just gave it up because it was too uncomfortable. Today it has really good replicas of medieval siege machines, and a great collection of weapons.

Beynac, the quintessential medieval castle

Beynac, the rival chateau across the river, was even more atmospheric. If someone wanted to know what a medieval "castle" looked like, I'd show them a picture of this. Richard the Lionheart won this castle for himself, and held it for ten years. The movie "The Messenger" about Joan of Arc was partially filmed here. Inside, some of the passages were only lit by oil-lamp torches. The views down to the river were spectacular: the walls are high, but also set on a cliff-top, so it's about 450 feet to the valley floor.

High above the Dordogne on the Beynac keep

We did all these things and were never more than 15 kilometres from Sarlat. What an area this is! Hey, I'm pretty enthused too!

At dinner, Jenn and I went out alone (!) while Anica went out (somewhere else!) with my parents. We had a great dinner, kind of Swiss food, called "Chez Le Gaulois," platters of sliced ham, fondues, potatoes and salad. Anica and Mum and Dad went to an Italian restaurant. It was weird, since Anica's barely been out of the sight (of at least one of us) for the last nine months. But it was also nice to have a romantic French dinner in the heart of France. One of many reasons we have to thank my parents.

April 30

(Rob)

Theme of the day? Driving through the Eastern Dordogne. The other theme was the weather: rain, sun, rain, sun, etc. Anyway, sporadically following the Dordogne River, we came to Martel. It's a smaller town than Sarlat, and different because of its white stone buildings. Sarlat's is a golden ("lemony" they call it) limestone. We had a whistlestop tour of Martel, with its medieval center. Dad felt "really back in time" in Martel, as he did too with the second of the chateaux we visited yesterday. Then the rain came and we just saw Carennac through the windshield wipers. It had cleared again by the time we got to Rocamadour. This is a spectacular town. You view it from across a deep, rocky valley. It looks fastened to the cliffside. From afar, it looks like a carving, a miniature village that you'd expect to see in a snow globe. Most of its buildings have the rock as their back wall. We drove through it, then saw it from below, before moving beyond it on the road back to Sarlat. Lush green forests and grasslands, and a still-raging Dordogne River. So, a classic family road trip!

Rocamadour, from across the valley

A piece of the "Roc"

May 1

(Rob)

It's May! And it's May Day. A holiday here in Sarlat. Since schools are closed Wednesdays, offices are closed Saturdays and Sundays, and stores are closed Mondays, we sure were surprised to see everything shut again on a Thursday. We don't have this holiday in Canada. Of course, the restaurants were open, and there was a festive market in the streets of Sarlat.

Sarlat balcony

We were out to the Jardins d'Eyrignac today, a "manoir" gardens, done in Italian, French and English formal garden styles. Picture sculpted hedges and trees, and near maze-like corridors. Anica liked running around the areas that didn't say keep off the grass. We all enjoyed not just the gardens, but the drive there. Fifteen kilometres from Sarlat, and once we got out of the town, there was never a car behind us. We drove the twisty road at about 30 km/h, to better take in the countryside and the picturesque farmhouses and bories.

Gardens and chateau of Eyrignac

Our final dinner together was at a restaurant called "Lou Cocolou." Very nice for the occasion, with a table on an indoor/outdoor courtyard. We've had a great time together; since my parents live fairly close to us in Ontario, Anica has never had an extended visit like this with her grandparents. It will be sad to take them to their train tomorrow and say goodbye. It's safe to say that without my parents' support, in every sense of the word, our "big world trip" would not have been possible. For them to be an active part of the experience is very special. Although my parents travel each year to Europe, my Dad's health issue means that they never take continued travel for granted. Now they're off to enjoy a tour of France that includes more time in Paris, the Loire Valley and Normandy. Bon voyage, Mom and Dad!

May 2

(Rob)

Yes, my parents were seated comfortably on their train this morning, which we presume means there's no repeat of the wildcat train strike incident. The three of us took turns today in expecting to see my parents in the next room or beside us on the sidewalk.

Due to the raging Dordogne river conditions, we had to abandon the idea of a canoe trip. Anica got to choose what else to do, and she picked an attraction called "Le Bournat," a "1900" village. Although this wasn't nearly as good as a couple of the "pioneer villages" in Ontario, Anica seemed to enjoy it, especially because they anachronistically added children's playground equipment and midway rides.

We enrolled Anica in a local school, but she complained the other kids were dummies.

Today was perhaps the warmest day we've had in Europe so far: 26 degrees and nothing but sunshine. We had a picnic by the little river at the 1900 village, surrounded by mannequins and (real) ducks. It's too bad my parents didn't get one more day like this in the Dordogne.

We went back to "Chez Le Gaulois" for dinner. Anica liked it as much as we did. One of our favourite restaurants of the whole trip!

May 3

(Rob)

The Saturday market in Sarlat was much busier than last week. Apparently, May is the start of the real tourist season. We bought out lunch stuff there, and after eating in our flat, drove the town of Domme. It's one of the "bastide" towns (pardon my French), meaning planned, fortified towns built in the 13th century. It's also way up on a hill, with an unbeatable view of the Dordogne valley. What's the English word for "belevedere?" Oh, apparently it's "belevedere." Anyway, it was a great view. Soon, though, we'll be moving on from the Dordogne, to another region of France.

"Right now I'll just sit here so contentedly, and watch the river flow."

April 25

(Anica)

"Sarlat is a Lovely Town"

Today we went to Sarlat. On the way we stopped for lunch at a gas statin that had a choice (of washroom) sqaut or sit. We chose sit. For lunch we had sandwhiches, chips and pops. Then we met Nana and Grandpa who told us they had a train strike. We had a lovely dinner at a lovely, pretty, nice, etc, etc, place were I had raw veggies, ham, fries, and ice cream. Went home, G.N.!

April 26

(Anica)

Today we went to the Sarlat market. It was a very interesting market. We bought olives, meats, cheeses, veggies, and lots more from the market! And it wasn't just food! Clothes! Acseories! Toys! Just about everything! For lunch we had all the stuff we bought at the maraket plus tarts from a tart shop. We played, did my school work, wrote my diary, watched TV, played Harry Potter before going outside on a walk. It was a fun walk and for dinner we had crepes. I got plain and a choco one for dessert. Had that lovely dinner at a Creperie, walked around some more, went home, G.N.

April 27

(Anica)

Today we went to Montiganac which is a pretty little town near Sarlat. about 25 km. In the tourist information center we got tickets to Lasqaux (a cave) and Le Thot (a caveish, museumish and biggish animal park). First we went to Lascaux. We had to go on a (luckily) English tour (no choice to go on your on). His English was o.k. but his accent! He's like "and now his dog Robot (but it was Robot, not Robert). blah blah blah..."

But the cave paintings were so cool! Paintings of deer, bulls, and much more! After we went to Rouqe Saint Cristophe where we first had lunch then went to the sight. They had slaughter houses, stables, pretty views, etc.

Plus it was just really, really neat! So cool! It was my favrite sight that day! Then we went to Le Thot where we saw animals (real), more cave paintings and a pretty good museum. Then went home, had dinner, G.N.!

April 29

(Anica)

Today we drove out of Sarlat. We first followed the signs for Cahors, but instead we went to Eglise de Carsac. That translate into Church of Carsac. Then we saw Montrfort Chateau (pronounced: sha-toe) which acorrding to Rick Steves is not worth a stop. After we went to Le Roque Gegeac where we walked and stared. We walked along the river and stared at the river as it went (maybe) 200 kph. Then we went to a great garden area where we saw: mazes, playgrounds, huts, treehouses, viewpoints, bushes, etc, etc....Then we went to Castelnaud which is in ruins but with more fun stuff to do. Beynac had a castle not in ruins but with less stuff to do. Went home, had dinner, G.N.!

April 30

(Anica)

Today we went on a drive. We went to Martel first. I had a soft decorated waffle. We walked around a ot and I took a video of us and Mummy went "blah!" which made me go wroof wroof wroof and run away. But the rest of the video was good. It was 1 minute 59 seconds. Then we drove a lot before having lunch at Rocamadour where we ate sandwhices and steaks! Yum! Then we drove around Rocamadour and viewed the town from a montin view. Then me, Mom, Dad, Nana and Grandpa went back, rested, had dinner, played Scrabble, G.N.!

May 1

(Anica)

Today we went to the Manoir de Eyrigac gardens. They were one of my favorite gardens. We viseted a Chinese pagoda and lots more! The terrace/white gardens where very pretty and looked very Chinese style! they had a fontin where the water came out of really stoney and wet and fake frogs! I wrote a comment in there comment book.

Frog fountain at Eyrignac

We had lunch of 3 Croque Monsuiers for Mummy, Nana and Grandpa, 1 tuna pizza for Daddy, and one yummy cheese panini (baked, grilled sandwhich) for (of course) me! We then went on a very fun Rick Steves tour! We went to a playground with slides and swings! I could make the swings go very high! It was lots of fun! For dinner we had: pate and soup for the adults (starter), plus main meal and dessert. I had the kids menu steak with fries and ice cream for dessart. Went home, G.N.!

May 2

(Anica)

"A 1900 Village!"

Today we went to a pioneer sort of village. It was called La Bournat. It's in La Booge (a town). When we first got there we found a bench and started to eat: olives, bread, meat, chips, juices and cookies. Ymmmmm! We then went over to the weirdly-not-1900-style playground. Because: airplane rides, electric rides, etc. We then went into the school where we saw a boy wearing a dunce hat shaped like a bunny. After seeing bolungires, toys, etc. (plus lots to wasps because it was over 21 degrees), we saw the windmill. The windmillers house is so tiny! We saw a reguler house, then left. I did my schoolwork, played Harry Potter and for dinner had some of the best meat and chesse ever! Had dinner, went home, G.N.!

May 3

(Anica)

Today, in the morning we went to the Sarlat market. For lunch we got strawberries, bread, olives, and yummy praline flavoured nuts. We also got some more stuff like sasuges and pate but we planned to hae those tomorrow. Had our yummy lunch, played Harry Potter then went to Domme. In 28 degrees! We walked around the pretty fortified town for at least one hour before I got tirerd and hot. We sat in a cool church for a couple minites before getting gelato and leaving. Sarlat was 25 (aproxximitly) km and seemed quick. When we got back we went to Pizzeria Romane, where Mommy and Daddy got pizza and I got menu bambino of steak hache, fries and rasberry and choco gelato with whipped cream (chantilly). Mummy also had a yummy choco mousse with sprinkles on top. We then went home, and then....G.N.!